Got an optic that needs to be mounted? Well, you’ve come to the right place! Today, we’ll go over mounting an optic in detail and explain how you can get your variable magnified optic up and running. Lots of modern optics, especially red dots, and prism sights, come with integral mounting systems that make it very easy to mount your optic to your gun. When it comes to variable magnified optics, you’ll need a little bit of know-how and a few tools to be a pro.

The Tools Needed

Mounting the optic is crucial to get the most performance out of the gun. To do so, we need a few tools. I’m sure plenty of people have mounted their optics without a problem with nothing more than an Allen key, but I find having a few tools can help immensely. Here’s what we’ll need:

• Inch Pounds Torque Wrench
• Scope Levels
• Vise
• Sturdy Bench To Work

That’s it! With that, we can become optically inclined and properly mount our optics.

A Word On Bases

There are lots and lots of different rifles with lots and lots of different bases. The most common these days is some form of rail, most likely Picatinny. A Picatinny rail is the standard if you have a flat-top AR-15. Guns like the Ruger 10/22 often come with a weaver base.

Lots of bolt-action rifles offer you the option of avoiding abase altogether and mounting rings directly to the gun. Quite a few more modern options have the scope base be a part of the rifle’s receiver. Guns like the Savage Impulse offer you a Picatinny rail that’s part of the receiver.

I prefer Picatinny rails as my base with scope rings or a one-piece mount. A Picatinny rail allows me to easily adjust the placement of the optic for proper eye relief. Rings that thread directly to the receiver remove some tolerance stacking. They can be very rigid but limit your eye relief options.

There are many bases, and each has its pros and cons. Due to the number of different base options, it’s tough to tell you how to mount yours. I suggest following the instructions and paying special attention to the torque required to attach the base to the gun. If you do not properly attach the base, you’re starting on the wrong foot. It’s the easiest step to get right, so get it right, torque it down, and when in doubt, double-check.

How To Mount a Scope

Alright, let’s get into the meat and potatoes of mounting an optic. Get your tools ready, get a comfortable working environment, get your gun, rings or mount, and optic, and let’s get ready. The first thing we are going to do is ensure your weapon is completely clear. Remove the magazine if applicable. Open the action and check the chamber visually and physically to ensure the gun is empty.

Once the gun is clear, we can start installing the optic. For safety’s sake, any work, even minor, needs a cleared gun. Don’t skip this step!

Step One – Get Setup

You’ll need a stable, sturdy working environment. A flimsy table that moves every time you adjust the gun won’t do. Set up your vise in an area you can work around and over. Attach the gun to the vice and tighten it down. It shouldn’t twist, move forward, rearward, or to the sides.

Step Two – Attach Your Rings or Mount

In my example, I’m attaching one-piece mounts to AR-type rifles. This is the simplest way to attach a magnified optic to a rifle. I’m going to tighten the mount most of the way to the gun, but I’m not torquing it down yet. I may want to adjust it in the next step. You can attach your rings the same way. Get them in position, but don’t torque them down just yet.

With the rings or mount on the gun, remove the top part of the rings and set them aside for now. Be careful not to lose any of those tiny little bolts.

Step Three – Drop The Optic Into the Rings

Place your optic inside the mount. The rings should not sit against the magnification ring or any adjustment turrets. You want a little space so you can use the turrets for adjustments. I also learned a hard lesson about backup red dots. My backup red dot is attached to my rings.

My rings were far enough from the adjustment turrets, but when I installed my mini red dot, it sat right against them. Unfortunately, I discovered this after step six, after having already tightened everything up. If you’re running a backup red dot attached to the rings, double-check that distance as well.

With rough spacing between the rings, place the tops of the rings on the mount or rings and secure them just slightly. Wait to torque the rings down. Tighten them a bit like a tire. Just incrementally tighten each one and swap from bolt to bolt, tightening it just a bit.

The scope rings should be tight enough to hold the optic still but allow you to move it back and forth manually. It should take just a little effort.

Step Four – Check the Eye Relief

Loosen the vise and pop the gun out. Turn the magnification to its highest setting. Shoulder the rifle with your head in a natural position. We are checking for eye relief. You may need to move the optic backward and forward to get it just right. We want a clear image without scope shadow.

If you adjust the optic to the point where the adjustment turrets or magnification rings are setting against the rings, we have to adjust the rings or mount forward or aft. This is a hassle, but that’s why we didn’t roque the rings down just yet. If necessary, adjust your mount or rings to allow you to establish a clear sight picture with proper eye relief. Once we have proper eye relief, the rifle returns to the vise.

Step Five – Level It Out

Place the gun back in the vise, and we will level it out. Attach a level to a solid spot on the gun. Obviously, a wide, flat surface close to the optic is preferred. As you tighten the vise, you may need to adjust the rifle to ensure it remains level.

Once the vise is tight and the gun is still level, grab your torque wrench and attach the optic mount of rings to the appropriate torque settings. These settings should be easy to find and are likely between 30 and 40-inch pounds.

This one goes on the scope itself. The turret, with the cap off, is often the best place for the second level. With the second level installed, you need to begin leveling the scope itself. You may rotate it left or right a bit, and once it’s perfectly level, we’ll need the torque wrench.

Step Six – Tighten up

While keeping the rifle and optic level, you’ll need to begin tightening down the tops of the rings. Remember to alternate as you tighten—a little for one, a little for the other, and so forth. Half turns are a conservative way to tighten each bolt. Ensure you are using the manufacturer’s recommended torque specs.

Different manufacturers have different specs. Vortex might do 1-18 inch pounds, but Warne says use 20-25 inch pounds. Either way, learn it, love it, and live it. As you tighten, keep an eye on the level and ensure it stays level. Once it’s tightened to spec, congratulations—you’re done. You just need to zero the gun and optic.

Optically Inclined

Attaching most red dots and even prism sights is easy. Just toss it on and forget about it. With variable magnified optics, it can be tricky but not overly difficult. Sadly, only Trijicon makes LPVOs with integral mounting systems. For now, if you follow the above steps, you’ll be golden.