HomeTacticalShopTalk Sunday: Low Vision Options for Senior Shoptards

ShopTalk Sunday: Low Vision Options for Senior Shoptards

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(Ok, maybe the better title would have been…)

PRO TIP #1: If you have a door that sticks, go to the upper hinge plates and tighten everything. If they have stripped, fill with matchsticks and punch in a few more screws (like I did here). Years will go by  and the door may never stick again… 100-year construction, right? Super Pro: Uses tempered 2″ to 3″ long steel screws when adding to hinge plates to increase kick-in resistance. Pinned hinges are optional depending on your meds.

Aging doesn’t stop real makers. It just means we upgrade the tools, not give up the game.  Maybe we get more serious about counting fingers both before and after using a power saw…yeah…

Let’s take aim at the creeping dimness that comes with time: not the world’s — your own damn eyeballs. Since I had to sell the Beechcraft due to a displaced IOL, and since a good day for me is now 20:30 (best eye) and the other runs 20:50, I have learned a whole gob [of shit] about making due limits on shop work (and serious home maintenance) on the way to the tax-free place with granite address markers…

Whether it’s macular degeneration, post-cataract haze, floaters, or just presbyopia turning your up-close work into a blurry mess, this one’s for the high-skill, low-vision shop crew.  A collection of no-BS, gear-head-certified operations, upgrades, and workarounds to keep you building, welding, cutting, and calibrating — no matter what the ol’ eye sensors are doing. You’ve got back-ups.

Begin Understanding “Your Domain Shift”

Declining vision will not end your enjoyment unless you LET IT.

Write that down and never forget it.  Remember, your body has four (and as many as maybe 6-7) other senses.  I have become a much better welder because of my vision decline than I ever was before.  And, it was funny, really; transformational without the sermon.

PRO TIP #2: On the new Evolution R10S the sliding table release is the orange pull-down pin located just under (and behind) the left side of the fence racking plate. (Facing machine input side.) How to Use: Pull down to use the sliding feature. Park slide position and re-pin for conventional table slot use – like with your miter gauge. Sliding table is great, but not  for fixturing feather boards or rip-rollers. These work better in solidly fixed positions relative to the blade.

There are — for all home “makers” and “DIY’ers” — certain “shop operations” that are the chef’s kiss of Making.  For my late father (billions of years ago) it was framing up houses.  But there we other things he enjoyed, one of which was painting very straight lines and having perfect cut-ins.

Me? Seeing a new 3D model materialize over a day or two on one of the 3D printers, floating on that perfect 6th coat of triple-thick Varathane, running a good bead at the welding table, or flying in a new antenna over the top of a 100-foot Southern Pine with a drone.

The eyes used to dominate.  Nowadays?  Not so much.  Here’s a quickie “hit list” before we get prodigious.

  • 3D printers means more time on Fusion or TinkerCad or (name your poison). Check and recheck before printing. You need a big-ass monitor.  Huge sucker.  My eyeballs are 20-inches (arm’s length) from a 55-inch 4K screen.  That’s how I roll writing columns, books, and doing research as well.  It’s really great.  Sure, it’s still eyes but I can work even uncorrected if I feel like it…which is a nice break, now and then.
  • Paint prep in general, and final coats in particular, get “hands on.” This is something I picked up 40-years back from a first-class auto-body guy.  “Feel it with your hands – they will find more imperfection than your eyes – every time!”  And it’s no lie.
  • Maybe because I have a highly developed visual cortex, welding and running a good bead had – until about 6-months ago, been a highly visual experience.  Now, with my Chinese made stick-welding gun, I have really come to appreciate the feel of a good bead.  Coupled with the right sound of the arc, my stick work has improved dramatically.  (From abysmal to nearly passable…but we’ll take the points every time…)
  • And on flying antennas over trees?  The deal-changer there was two-fold.  A super-high NITS (brightness/contrast) phone (claims 600 but likely 400 NITS) with a Bigger Screen.  Where there’s a will, you might need a checkbook.

Point is, the flying job is STILL within your grasp. I fly at sun-up, not high noon anymore.

The mindset shift is learning to consider every job from a “How would Ray Charles, or Ronnie Milsap work this problem?”  Sure, you have to be realistic:  A StopSaw without “coke bottles” is maybe a bad (very bad verging on stupid) idea.

But the other tips of Aging in the Shop deserve mention here:  You will not have as much strength to put into tool control.  You’re not a coward yeller-belly Geezer for clamping on edge guides.  Not everyone can restock the shop with laser-equipped saws.  I mean, lasers are good, and all.  But sometimes the line disappears under the sawdust, anayway…so yeah, it’s almost true to generalize that we “Become better craftsmen” when we age because of recognizing our limits.

Core Shop Operations that Demand Visual Precision

Vision Tip 1: Even on a small, super busy workstation (like here on the Hobby Bench) there’s usually room for a small 7″ LED coin microscope like this one. It swings out of the way when not in use. Applications:  for small models and “just-so” adjustments to cranky gun mechanisms that jam after firing ‘x‘ rounds… Low vision means keeping instincts sharp, better quality aim points, with less emphasis on long scopes… Use eye vitamins to increase eye response before range work; I use 2-4 grams of C which seems to improve visual contrast in marginal sight conditions (after sunset and sim night-fighting…dial back imager output so as not to wreck visual purple…etc…).  Have bags of lime handy if you don’t get it right, lol.

Here’s where you feel it most as eyesight declines (and in parens are how I’ve worked around the problem):

  • Threading needles on lathes/mills.  (“Elaine!  Can you come over to the shop?” If she’s not available (or busy) a handheld (lighted, rechargeable) big-ass magnifier is great.)
  • Reading micrometers, calipers, and dial indicators.  (Get tools with big markings. Big, digital markings.  Wear glasses.  Then put on the flip-up magnifiers and use ’em.)
  • Fine soldering/SMD work (especially RF and Arduino builds). I have – and use the hell out of – a 10.5″ 4K “coin microscope.”  There are lots of USB $40 and under class microscopes, too.  A kids magnifier for under $30 bucks is shockingly useful.  This one. $27 bucks.
  • Reading resistor color codes or capacitor markings.  Still reading color bands? Oh-boy… (Get and use an LCR meter.  I have two Prosters and they give me actual values – not just theory, right?  Try this.  $33 bucks. You deserve it.)
  • Welding bead tracking (especially TIG).  This is a workpiece fixturing change:  Set up a straight edge in such a way that one of your fingers will like exactly down the guide piece and be over dead-center of the bead.  From there, if you want to get fancy you can…)
  • Bandsaw/blade alignment and drift correction. (Get thee to Amazon and get some 4-5 inch high T-slot and make proper fencing. Then make lots of cuts (using scrap).)  If you have to make free-hand cuts, like circles in sheet goods, don’t worry about “perfect on every line first pass.”  Then make sure you have lots of light on the work and learn to make really dark markings. Sharpies are your pal here.
  • Edge joining on woodworking projects (glue line inspection). (Again, not tools – more technique.  I have pipe clamps for glue-up and they are kept spotless.  If you lay the good surface down onto the pipe, tap a few times with a mallet, you can get a very good surface. No gobs of glue and good tools in good repair helps oodles.)
  • Precision measurement (layout markings under 1/64″).  (Except for veneer inlays and Formica work (which comes with a whole set of perfect fit tricks itself) I tend to make a cut and then use “feel”.  Once you get to the cutting of material, use stop blocks and jigs so everything will be perfect.  Eyeballing holes in pipe?  I do it right now (using a vee block which until the eyes faded used to be pure “old man skill shit.”  Well, now that I am one…)
  • PCB inspection and repair. That “coin microscope” is the godsend.)
  • Deburring and finish judging (visual grain alignment). (The hands – fingertips for fine surfaces, a dry palm over larger…amazing what those tactile senses can reveal!)
  • Polishing and lapping operations (spot-checking reflection). Small high-intensity rechargeable flashlight – hold it and work the reflections which become really much more apparent…and adjustable.
  • Plumb and square checking — visual, not jig-based. (Befriend a Mason. Own good machinists squares, a plumb bob and string.  When you do have to jig things, do all your work on the same surface and then remember how the joints felt.  Hands become eyes at this point in Life.)
  • Using vernier scales or compound angle tools.  (Only at gunpoint.) Buy digital angle finders.
  • Fitting keyways, splines, or press-fits by visual alignment. Again, becomes your primary sensory channel– tactile is tactical now!)
  • Using pin gauges or go/no-go testers under tight tolerances.  (Go-no-go gauges are worth their weight in gold.  To some of us, they were the only way to gap VW plugs so they would fire evenly…buy what you need and again TOUCH.)
Vision Tip #2: This is my main electronics bench dermatology lamp. At the green arrow you can see the additional 5X bubble. Check with your PCP for sourcing ideas if you can’t find something useful, on Amazon, Craigslist, or OfferUp. Remember to put all this on swing-aways – learn from your Dentist and Endo on organizing “airspace” over “workspace!”
  • Reading control panel markings, machine dials, and analog gauges (The smallest monitor in the building is the 24 inch on the electronics bench.  But that has current everything on it and all files in the Radio Manuals library is shared on the LAN. I also have an older 55″ that may get hung over the main shop bench for the purpose of being able to add visual enhancements later over there.  With a Win11 mini computer under $150 bucks on Amazon, WTF, right?)
  • Epoxy, resin, and CA glue application on small parts. (Nitrile gloves and more shop towels, are you kidding?)
  • Hand engraving, checkering, or other decorative/functional micro work.  (Learn more CNC skills and 3D printing skills. Or Print inlays or panels, then apply. with lots of glue from previous step…)
  • Watch, clock, or fine instrument repair.  (Microscopes of all varieties…or stop watching clocks completely.  In mty shop, voice-control matters.  “Alexa, turn on vacuum” will turn on the big HF dust-sucker.  Handles lights and other chores
  • Tracing wiring diagrams, schematics, or pinout charts while working. ( Essential Low-Vision Upgrades for the Serious Shop

Visual Augmentation Tool Shopping

  • Headband magnifier with built-in LEDs (flip-up lenses)
  • Clamp-on swing-arm magnifier lamp (5–10x)
  • HDMI microscope w/ 15″–27″ screen for circuit board, tool edge, or small hardware work
  • Optivisor with lens plate swaps
  • Large print rulers/tapes (white-on-black)

Lighting Enhancements

  • 5,000–6,500K LED panel lights (true daylight spectrum)
  • Task lighting at each bench — minimum 1000 lumens focused  (This high lumen monster is voice controlled on my main bench.  Answers to “Alexa: turn on FOCUS.” SPF at the ready?
  • Under-shelf strip lights for vertical shadow elimination
  • Machine lighting — magnetic gooseneck lamps for lathes, mills, and drill press
  • Shadowless ring lights (especially for microscope or soldering setups)

Digital Assist Tools

  • Camera-based inspection scopes with HDMI or USB output
  • Document camera for reading labels, charts, manuals
  • Tablet or monitor-based zooming (point a webcam at work zone) (I’m not this retentive – yet…)
  • Voice command macros for measuring conversions or tool lookups

Tactile & Audible Aids

  • Talking tape measures
  • Braille or high-contrast control overlays for shop equipment
  • Vibration or audio indicators on digital gauges
  • Clicking torque drivers or haptic-feedback testers

Pro Tips – Taken Lightly

  • Backlight your layout work – trace over an illuminated panel
  • Spray a light dusting of flat paint or layout dye on shiny parts before scribing
  • Use feeler gauges and alignment jigs more — don’t trust your eyes alone
  • Use contrasting colors (black-on-white or yellow-on-blue) when marking or reading tools
  • QR code your tools, shelves, and manuals for instant tablet lookups with zoom

Build a Low Vision Workstation

If you’re still trying to solder under a 60-watt incandescent bulb, it’s time for a rethink.

Set up a station with:

  • Overhead LED panel(s) (4000+ lumens)
  • Swing-arm 10x magnifier
  • 1080p microscope + HDMI monitor (27″ preferred)
  • Silicone mat with raised edges for part visibility
  • Clampable adjustable-angle mirrors (to check back sides without moving parts)

I found a “dermatologists LED with a 5” round magnifier with a 10X bubble on it…yeah, now we’re talking…

See Here…

Getting older doesn’t mean stepping back from shop work — it just means upgrading the human interfaces in your worksite. More light!  More pixels, and more focused pre-thinking the tasks with an eye toward shop hacks can make all the difference.

The Tool Slut’s Notebook

When I picked up my Lotos plasma cutter, gee, must have been five years back, they were spendy.  Right around $500 bucks.

Solid brand, but it didn’t have built in air so it still needed a line to the compressor and external control of air flow.

But I was flipping through Amazon tools Saturday morning and oh my!  YesWelder had a 1/2-inch class plasma rig for $140 on a deal.  Sure, you still need an external air source but pressure is on the front.  As always price your consumables, but this is what we would be looking at for a good starter to intermediate rig for home welding.

Once you get your steel cut, you’ll want something to join metal.  If you’re just welding up rebar and tee-posts for a solar rack, some decent Forney sticks and an under $75 stick gun like this one will get you there.

For thinner work or (gasp!) more precision, here’s a new one I hadn’t noticed before – a Handheld MIG unit. Stick welder marries a MIG wire feeder.  $119 on sale. Sure, only 100 amps but the specs claim it will run  .030″ and .035″ flux core. Though, we don’t see 100 amps doing a lot of high-build 1/4″ single-pass, if you know what we mean.

Thing is, it’s possible to get a plasma cutter and a stick gun for about the same price as a decent 3D printer. Now that we have an Evolution table saw that will cut steel round and square tube, somehow the urgency of putting the Swiss Micro print heads on the older CR10 V2 machines in”printer alley” keeps getting pushed down the to-do list…

We’ll keep an eye out for you…

[email protected]

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